Saturday, 26 April 2008

Trouble in Barta'a (part 2)

Abu Rami's son is back from hospital, recovering at home.

It all started on Sunday night, 3 weeks ago, when a group of kids from Kabatia taunted some local Barta'a youth. A fight broke out, knives yielded and Abu Rami's son was stabbed. Within moments hundreds of people gathered. The stabber, a guy from Kabatia, was about to be lynched when Abu Rami showed up. Shielding his son's attacker with his body, he led him to safety handing him over to Kabatia people (there is a big presence of people from Kabatia in Barta'a. They work and sleep in their market stalls).

At this point, there are no dead bodies. No deaths = no blood feud. But all of a sudden someone collapses. A 37 year old man suffers a fatal heart attack. He is from Kabatia, a village infamous for its' armed gangs and long history of violence.

The next day, Abu Rami came back from Hadera hospital with some news. He makes a public announcement on the outskirts of the market. His son, thank God is alive and recovering from his wounds. The man from Kabatia died of a heart attack. He has a copy of the death certificate. Everyone breaths a sigh of relief. This should be the end of it. But a few hours later, word is out that the gangs in Kabatia are seeking revenge. Anyone from Barta'a going to Jenin is taking the risk of being shot.

So now, life in Barta'a is even more difficult Muntasir tells me. "I need to get to Jenin periodically. That's where we do our banking and sort out administrative issues with the various governmental offices. I get supplies for my medical laboratory from there too". "With travel restrictions, it's often difficult to get to Jenin. But now, I am afraid for my life." Muntasir is 27 years old and has not been able to leave Barta'a for 3 weeks.

Thursday, 24 April 2008

Beit Jann





It's Pesach in Israel and the kids are off school for 2 weeks. We took advantage of the holiday to travel around Northern Israel. Beit Jann is a Druze village, 1100m above sea level, the highest populated spot in the country, overlooking both the Mediterranean and the Sea of Galilee. The wooden cabin at the top of the mountain was as beautiful as our Druze hosts.

Sunday, 13 April 2008

Trouble in Barta'a (Part 1)

The clinic was shut on Monday when we arrived at Barta'a. Something didn't feel right. I called Abu Rami who didn't sound like his usual self. He said Ikram, the receptionist should be over soon to open the clinic. We decided to drive to the checkpoint to see what was going on. It was business as usual at the checkpoint, only light human traffic passing through at 9 am. We started walking down the barbed wire corridor, hoping to get to the area where Palestinians get 'processed' on their way in and out, when we were abruptly stopped by a security officer, gun pointing at us from the watch tower. "Are you Israeli?" he asked. Yes, I replied. He seemed more puzzled than us: "Why are you here?" "Because we want to see what our patients have to go through before they arrive at the clinic" I replied. "Well, you can't go here, this area is only for Palestinians. Israelis are only allowed to go through by car". We didn't have the required permits anyway, so we turned back, feeling very weird. People coming through the checkpoint seemed calm and indifferent, but I couldn't help wondering what impact this daily encounter has on one's psyche. Barbed wire corridors, watch towers with guns pointing in your direction on your way to work, or to visit friends, or shopping or just going from A to B.

Back at the clinic, the doors were still shut. Another phone call to Abu Rami, who says Ikram is on her way. She arrives soon after and opens the door. On the doorstep, just inside the clinic she picks up a blood stained shirt. "It's Abu Rami's son" she says. "He was stabbed last night during a fight between rival gangs in the village. He is injured but alive in hospital. Abu Rami is with him". To be continued..